Tijuana: Impressions Confirmed and Shattered

When people ask me what I do, I often find myself wincing on the inside before responding.  It can be a loaded question, depending on who is asking the question and what the circumstances are.  For nearly fifteen years, my answer was simple:  I’m a Spanish and Dance teacher at Carlsbad High School. My standard answer nowadays has become a bit lengthier, and I find that I often have to do a bit of explaining.

Just to be a provocateuse, I like to say I’m a retired teacher.  That’s usually met with a squinty-eyed, furrowed brow look, so then I have to explain the truth in that statement.  Despite not being 65 (yet), I have retired (definition: to leave one’s job, to withdraw from one’s occupation).  Initially, it started as a Leave of Absence so that I could earn a degree in French language with the hopes of eventually teaching French in addition to Spanish.  Eventually, I found an opportunity to pursue other passions, like traveling.  Now I work as an assistant tour guide in Europe, help with guidebook research, substitute teach, and write this blog.  But a wonderful woman recently said to me, “You haven’t stopped teaching.  You’ve just got a much bigger classroom now.”

I hope that’s true.  I want that to be true.  But there’s still a part of me that feels like I should be doing more.  Something that not only fulfills me, but something that allows me to contribute to society and help people.  I miss that about being a high school teacher.

Our merry band of volunteers, ready to help Esperanza in its mission to help build homes and communities.
Our merry band of volunteers, ready to help Esperanza in its mission to help build homes and communities.

Recently, I found an opportunity to do just that.  A group at my church has been making annual trips to Mexico through a secular organization called Esperanza International (esperanza is Spanish for “hope”) to help build homes with families in various colonias, or neighborhoods, in greater Tijuana.   As a relatively new member to this congregation (I’ve been attending since autumn of 2010), I thought this would also a perfect opportunity to meet and get to know more people from my church.  And despite my lack of handyman skills, I felt that I could provide what skills I do have (speaking Spanish, a strong body, a good work ethic, a good dose of compassion) to help people in need.  But perhaps most importantly as a long-term benefit, I would see Tijuana from a perspective that would enable me to connect with a people and a culture on an intimate and personal level, to begin to understand their needs and circumstances and to close the gap between my perception of that culture and the reality that they experience.

Doing a volunteer project like this will almost always change you, or at the very least, expose you to things you never knew or never realized.  You’d have to be a piece of lint to not be emotionally affected in some way, so I went into this expecting to learn a lot about the people of Tijuana and even about myself.

What I wasn’t expecting was the shock of finding out that I had had negative preconceived ideas about what I would see.  What I mean is that my mental picture of Tijuana did not match the reality I encountered.  I thought I knew what it would be like, but I had such a near-sighted vision based on Friday night trips in high school to the bars on Avenida Revolución (sorry, Mom, it’s true), day trips for cheap goods and cheap meals as an adult, and years of watching horror stories of violence on San Diego and national news.  The image I had of Tijuana was one of littered streets, people living in poverty, and children selling packets of Chiclets gum as you tried to cross the border back to the U.S.

That’s not to say that I didn’t see those things on this trip, because I did, but I can’t believe how easily I had duped myself over the years into believing a sweeping generalization about an entire city when I knew better that.  I was completely embarrassed to realize that I had been so narrow-minded.  For heaven’s sake, I was a Spanish teacher, yet I somehow had permitted myself to perpetuate a false perception and an oversimplification about what life is like for our neighbors south of the border.

This all hit me on the first day.  There were twelve people in our group, and we packed a long white van with our luggage and ourselves and drove from San Diego Airport to Tijuana. Bypassing the downtown area, we took the highway to head south of the city proper to a town called La Gloria, where we would make our home for the next seven days at La Posada Esperanza (Esperanza’s multi-use and dorming facility).  Along the drive, which brought us near the coast and then back inland, I noted to myself that the topography was so similar to many areas in San Diego: dry, rugged cliffs speckled with chaparral, winding canyons, and vast mesas.  There were clusters of modern factories, residential areas, commercial areas, and stretches of natural space, like most any other area in its north of the border sister city.  If not for the dense stacking of multicolored and mismatched dwellings, rubbish piling up and then cascading down the hills upon which those homes were built, and the graffiti that was exclusively in Spanish, I could have imagined this being a part of San Diego.  And if not for a political border that now separated this land and its people from its neighbor to the north, this could be a very different picture.

Across from a desolate dirt road hill, a comfortable neighborhood is in bloom.
Across from a desolate dirt road hill, a comfortable neighborhood is in bloom.

After settling into our residence, several of us agreed to go on an errand to buy our groceries for the group for the week.  From the posada, we took a bumpy, roller coaster of a dirt road to a nearby colonia.  Had I known how topsy-turvy this drive would be, I would have taken some Dramamine…and sat on a pillow.  As we crested a hill lined with empty plastic bags and tire remnants, I looked to the right and saw an immaculate and thriving community filled with cookie cutter houses of the pastel tangerine variety, with a couple of blue and red ones thrown in just for show.  I was taken aback.  This well-paved and expertly organized neighborhood could be mistaken for a suburb near where I grew up.  My brain started to grind.  I could almost hear the cogs jamming and struggling to turn because I was having difficulty reconciling the image of Tijuana that had long-lived in my mind and what I was now seeing with my very own eyes.

The megamarket Comercial Mexicana (a.k.a. La Comer) sits on prime property next to a Little Caesars, across from a gated neighborhood.
The megamarket Comercial Mexicana (a.k.a. La Comer) sits on prime property next to a Little Caesars, across from a gated neighborhood.

Before I had time to process that, we arrived at the supermarket.  And when I say super, I mean mega.  Think Safeway meets Walmart meets Costco–gigantic, with everything under the sun, but a with smidge more coziness and personality. This Comercial Mexicana chain store (fondly known locally as La Comer) was situated in a strip mall with co-tenants that included Little Caesar’s, Blockbuster, and a Chinese restaurant.  In the parking lot were several while-you-shop car detailers with red plastic carry-all carts equipped with everything they needed to make your car look all shiny and new again.  Across the street was a gated community, but just beyond this neighborhood were vast open spaces that were dotted with shanty structures that seemed to long for attention and affection.

Get your car cleaned while you shop.
Get your car cleaned while you shop.
If you can't find Hostess Cup Cakes in the U.S. anymore, you always have the option of getting Mi Pinguino (My Penguin) in Mexico.
If you can’t find Hostess Cup Cakes in the U.S. anymore, you always have the option of getting Mi Pingüino (My Penguin) in Mexico.

Tasked with buying a week’s worth of groceries for twelve people, we paired up, divided the list and tried to conquer this megamarket.  The immensity of the store was daunting, but it was equally intriguing.  My friend Lori (also a Spanish-speaker) and I couldn’t help but go down every single aisle, amazed by the quantity and variety of products, lusting for products you couldn’t find in the States and pointing out all the multi-national products we had in common.

Zucaritas: They're greeaaat!
Zucaritas: They’re Gr-r-reat!
When you come to this megamarket, be prepared to  do some serious shopping.
When you come to this 50,000 square-foot megamarket, be prepared to do some serious shopping.

The place was packed with happy families and serious consumers who were looking for the best deals on everything from fresh chicken to the ripest tomatoes, from the best facial cleanser to the best-looking jeans, from the most versatile blender to the biggest flat-screen TV.  Globalization was here and everything you could possibly want could be found in this 50,000 square-foot box.

In addition to groceries, you can buy, beauty products (Belleza), electronics (Electrónicas), appliances (Línea Blanca), furniture (Muebles), or take advantage of their credit and layaway service (Crédito y Apartado).
In addition to groceries, you can buy, beauty products (Belleza), electronics (Electrónicas), appliances (Línea Blanca), furniture (Muebles), or take advantage of their credit and layaway service (Crédito y Apartado).

I just didn’t know what to make of all of this–of any of this.  Not just the relative affluence that I had not realized existed in Tijuana, but the existence of that relative affluence juxtaposed with the desperate poverty that permeated throughout this region.  I had so many questions and ideas floating in my brain that I couldn’t manage to articulate–not to myself, not to anyone else…not yet.

All I knew was that walls of misperception were beginning to crumble all around me, and it was my opportunity to seize–to demolish them for good during this week of service.  I would have the chance to construct new perspectives based on engaging with the people I would meet through Esperanza, to learn about their personal experiences, and to reshape my own ways of thinking.  I may have come down here to help those in need, but I had a feeling that in the long run, they would really be helping me.

I hope you’ll follow along in the next few posts as I share some more of my experiences on my volunteer trip to Tijuana. Stay tuned!

 

Thankful for Being Scarred for Life…In the Best Possible Way

About two weeks after Rick and I decided to go on a whitewater river rafting adventure, I started to notice a few new wrinkles on my forehead.  Not deep and permanent ones, but tiny stress-induced worry lines that had surely materialized because of a singular, gnawing fear: hitting my head on a rock while being thrown from our raft into a treacherous river rapid.  I tried massaging them away and moisturizing day and night, but I knew that it was the countless stories from friends and family about getting dumped into the water on their own rafting trips (thanks, everyone) that were stoking my subconscious mind’s knee-jerk reaction to frown and furrow my brow.

Being an expert river guide and being certified in emergency rescue response, Paul taught us important strategies for potential “out of raft” experiences.

The morning that we put in on the Snake River, our river guide, Paul (a Wilderness First Responder and Outdoor Emergency Care Technician certified in CPR and Swift Water Rescue), gave an expert lesson on what to do in case we got thrown from the raft.  We would need to remember to aim our flexed feet downriver so that we could hit any potential rocks feet first and hopefully not get our ankles lodged in them.  Since our life vests were so buoyant, we should hold onto and pull down on them near our necks so that our mouths would stay above the vest itself and out of the water.  If we found ourselves in strong rapids with cresting and dropping waves, we must remember–counterintuitively–to breath at the bottom, not on the top.  Since one generally passes through a wave and not over it, if we tried to breathe at the top, we’d simply take in water, not air.  And lastly, we should look ahead for a surviving boat’s river guide and follow his/her instructions to swim to that boat or to the shore or whatever.

Normally, knowing safety procedures eases my worries, but somehow, visions of my head split open by a rock still managed to nag at my wild imagination.

Rick lounges and watches the world go by as we tranquilly float down the river.

Throughout the trip, the river provided myriad opportunities for rip-roaring rides through class III (Difficult: rapids with high, irregular waves; narrow passages that often require precise maneuvering) and class IV rapids (Very Difficult: long, difficult rapids with constricted passages that often require complex, expert maneuvering in turbulent water; scouting is generally necessary).  But we also had long periods of tranquil and leisurely pathways that were ideal for admiring the scenery as it slowly went by or for napping on the edge of the raft.

When we knew that the rapids would be no more than class I (Easy: waves small; passages clear; no serious obstacles) or class II (Medium: rapids of moderate difficulty with passages clear; requires experience plus suitable outfit and boat), we took advantage of floating or swimming in the currents.  Even though the rapids weren’t very vigorous, we felt so invigorated and liberated, being carried along at the whim of the waters.

Stan (near) and Rick (far) expertly navigate the choppy waters of the Snake River in their rubber ducky kayaks.

These courses were perfect for kayaking, too.  Half of our group hopped into baby blue rubber ducky kayaks to feel what it was like to be the captains of our own vessels. Rick, was a natural, and the joy on his face at maneuvering deftly through the waterways made my heart melt with pride and happiness.

Look at how happy Rick is!

I, on the other hand…not so much an expert.  Kayaking on smooth Lake Union in Seattle or on the glassy waters of the Inner Passage of southeast Alaska is one thing.  Kayaking with currents pushing you towards the shore is quite another thing for me.  I think that I just need to develop better technique in order to build my confidence, and I’m eager for another chance to do just that.  But when something out of your control happens, it’s simply not a pleasurable experience.

My concentration levels were virtually at their peak and my muscles were in fully engaged-mode.  My ducky would be pushed to the left by the currents when I wanted to go to the right.  I would spin and face upriver when clearly I needed to be facing the opposite way.

When I was about fifty meters away from a sharp bend in the river, I read the water and knew that I needed to aim for the middle so that I wouldn’t be swept to the right and into the large, rocky cliff face that jutted into the river from the bank.  As I paddled towards the center, I heard a buzzing, rumbling noise grow louder and louder.  I sighed in frustration because I knew that a twenty-foot jet boat was coming upstream  at high speed and heading my way.  Now normally, when they see kayakers or rafters, the pilots are supposed to stop, or at the very least, slow down, so that their wakes don’t rock the other smaller vessels in the river.  But this guy was showing no signs of slowing down.  Although he kept to his right, I knew his wake was going to rock me and possibly throw me into the rushing river.  But if I paddled too close to my right side of the river, my head was going to make fast enemies with the rocky cliff.

A jet boat just like this pushed me into a coastal rock formation and nearly capsized my kayak.

I struggled and struggled to stay on course, to fight the natural movements of the water and the unnatural wakes of the evil jet boat.  I simultaneously cursed that pilot in my head and prayed to God to help me.  Every part of my body worked to keep me afloat as the waves tussled and jostled me like a cowboy on bucking bronco.  I got so close to the rocks that I actually pushed away from them with my hand to avoid scraping my face.

When I finally regained control of my kayak and steered into calmer waters, my nerves were frayed and I wanted out of that ducky…quick.

Paul signaled to us that we’d be coming upon a restful part of the river where we would dock at a massive boulder in the middle of the water.  Here we could transfer out of the kayaks if we wanted (yes, please) and into the rafts.  We could also, if we so chose, climb the boulder and jump fifteen feet into the water below.  Despite my still-frayed nerves, I so chose.

As I stood on the edge of the rock, I looked down below at the woman who had already jumped in and was swimming back to the rock to do it again, I saw Rick in his kayak beaming and shouting out words of encouragement, and I repeated to myself the chant of a coward trying to summon up some bravery: “You can do this.  You can do this.  You can do this.”  I’ve gone paragliding in Switzerland, skydiving in California, have flown through the air with the greatest of ease on a flying trapeze in Seattle, and have jumped off boulders higher than this in Hawaii, but here in this moment, I was paralyzed.  One minute passed.  Two minutes passed.  I was too embarrassed to just climb down and too wigged out to just jump.  I looked at Rick again.  His eyes connected with mine.  And I jumped.

I was back in business.  The thrill of the jump and the briskness of the water fired me up, and I was ready for anything.  Or so I thought.

Class IV.

After scouting our last class IV rapids of the trip, we eagerly climbed back into our raft.  Our river guide and resident cowboy, Craig, talked us through the route we would take through the currents, and reminded us six passengers that we would need to dig hard and fast to help us clear the rapids.

Paul’s raft went ahead of us.  We watched his pathway and were pleased to see the raft clear the rapids without any problems.  Our turn.  We were woot-wooing even before we got to any choppy water, eager to make the most of our last big hurrah on the river.  Rick and I were both on the right side of the raft, he in the first row, I in the second.  When Craig told us to start digging, I kept my head down to follow Rick’s strong and rapid tempo.  By the fifth stroke, I felt gravity pulling me forward.  The nose of our raft was starting to point downward, and when I looked up, all I saw was a massive wall of water that was now suddenly and swiftly pushing the nose up.  This was bad.  This was really bad.  And we all knew it.  Craig did his absolute best to keep us upright, but he was no match for this monster–and no one could have been. The raft inclined as the oncoming roller (a reversal wave or wave that rolls back on itself) swept underneath us, and one by one, with the speed of a machine gun, everyone and everything were all launched from the raft.

Blackness.  I remember nothing but blackness.

Then all of a sudden, I realized I was under the upside-down raft.  I gasped for air and swatted my hands above me to get out from underneath the vessel.  When I cleared the raft, Paul’s training kicked in.  I straightened my legs and flexed my feet as the waters carried me through the torrents.  I saw Rick about ten yards in front of me, holding onto the upside-down raft and looking for me.  His look of concern and worry for me were painful to see.  I tried to let him know I was okay, but I gulped water every time I tried to shout to him, and when I waved my arms, I would sink deep into my life vest and below the water.

I grabbed the neck of my vest to stay better afloat.  The waves were still overwhelming, and I had to consciously tell myself, “Breathe at the bottom!”  What seemed like an eternity went by before the waters started to subside.  Paul’s boat was now forty yards ahead of me.  I saw him signal for us to swim to his boat.  I saw a paddle go by, so I swam for that first–foolishly thinking this would somehow help me. Eventually, I made it to Paul’s boat, and I was pulled up firmly out of the water and into the safety of the raft.

We were able to pull in a couple more rafters, but still needed to help Rick and a woman named Lisa.  The waters were getting rough again, and I couldn’t help but worry.  But soon after, we had Rick, and my heart felt like it could beat again.

Lisa was still thirty yards back from us.  Paul told her to swim to shore, so she started to veer towards her right.  I saw Paul look downstream and then whip his head back towards Lisa.  He yelled calmly yet authoritatively, “Don’t swim to shore!  Follow us!” and I faintly heard Lisa say, “Yeah, right.”  We all understood why.  We were about to go through a class III rapids.

We watched helplessly as Lisa braved her way through the currents.  But she did it and finally made it to our raft.  We were all so relieved that she was safe.  And then we all laughed when we realized that she had salvaged some precious cargo from our overturned raft:  one can of Canada Dry.

When we made it to shore, we all animatedly shared our perceptions of the raft toss.  The excitement was palpable, fresh, and contagious.  It had been a thrilling experience not soon to be forgotten.  While we were still a little trepidatious, we were nonetheless grateful that no one was seriously hurt and that we had had an adrenaline-surging adventure that we would speak of often, long into the future.

A visible reminder of my whitewater rafting adventures.

As we recounted our tales, I kept feeling a stinging sensation on my forehead.  I touched it and felt no blood, so I wasn’t too worried.  When I had Rick and some others look at it, the looks on their faces caused me a little bit of concern.  I had Rick take a picture so I could see what it looked like.  Actually, it wasn’t that bad, but apparently, a nice chunk of skin was now gone from my face and floating down the Snake River.  I don’t know if my head hit a rock or a paddle or scraped the rope on the side of the raft, but I would definitely have a permanent and physical memory from this trip.

Riding the bull and loving it!

I was determined to not be psychologically scarred by this.  When we got back into the rafts, I asked if I could “ride the bull” or straddle the very front of the raft with my legs dangling above and in the water.  I needed to face my fears head on.  While we only went through class I and class II rapids, it was enough to regain my confidence and realize once and for all that I could do this and not fear it.

Now, a couple of months after that experience, I’m still scarred physically for life.  It’s healed over, but I can still see the mark and can actually feel a divot where precious skin used to be.  But it is now my one of my favorite souvenirs of all of my travels and of all my adventures, and I wouldn’t trade it for the world.

Many thanks to everyone at Winding Waters, Plate & Pitchfork, and Noble Rot for this thrilling experience.  I’ll never forget it!

Thank you, Paul!
Thank you, Craig!

Thank you, Erika!
Thank you, Leather!

Food, Friends, and Frankenfish on the Snake River

Living on the river for a few days sure can be rough…so I’ve heard.  Fortunately for me, Rick, and our fellow river rafters, we were living the river life pampered-style.

When we would take a break on the shore for lunch or when we would make camp for the night, the crew of Winding Waters, Plate & Pitchfork, and Noble Rot made sure that we were exceptionally well fed.  At the helm of the culinary brigade were Leather and Joe — owner/head chef and sous chef, respectively, of Noble Rot.

As you may know, I love food photos –not simply because I like the look of well-presented, well-made food but because food (and the photos you take of wonderful dishes) connects and reconnects you to specific moments in time.  It allows you to appreciate the meal beyond the sense of taste; you go into the realm of visual art and evocative memories.  It can also function as a reminder of the origin of the ingredients or the history behind a recipe.  And it can serve as an inspiration to do things and experience things that you don’t usually do in your daily life or in your own kitchen.

The meals that Leather and Joe skillfully and lovingly prepared for us merited being captured on film.  Here are just some of the tasty dishes we savored on our river trip:

Fine cured meats and savory cheeses for lunch
Expertly cooked beef with a shrimp and vegetable salad
Pan-seared chicken yumminess
Leather and Rick spice us our tomato/blue/cheese/steak appetizers.
Social hour at camp after a thrilling day of rafting.

Now food alone is not always enough to make a notable moment.  When you contour it with mirth, convivial conversation, and a shared appreciation for the moment, you can shape the meal into memorable event.  We were so grateful to have exuberant and interesting people to create and share experiences on this trip.  We weren’t all necessarily like-minded on the broad range of topics we discussed, but we were comfortable in challenging each other and being challenged.  And we were all on the same page in our enthusiasm for adventure, delicious food, and being social.

Reliving memories from our adventures and creating new ones through newfound friendships.
A few bottles of wine, a beautiful setting, and an appreciation for all that is good are three simple ingredients for great travel memories.
John, Rick, Craig and Paul bond over some beer and the shared experience of rafting on the Snake River.

One of the things I liked best about this trip was being exposed to activities I have previously shied away from.  In this case, water sports and fishing.  Water sports are new to me, and I’m quickly developing a true appreciation and thirst for it.  At one point, fishing used to be a weekly part of my childhood, but as an adult, I can count the number of times on one hand the number of fishing trips I’ve been on.   On this trip, Rick went fishing with great success.  The fish were eager to be nabbed by his hook.  I tried it twice.  The first time, I had a nibble or two, but never caught anything.  The second time was much more rewarding.

Perching my flip-flopped feet on a sturdy rock near the edge of the riverbank, I cast my line about twenty yards out into the river.  The whizzing sound of the unwinding fishing line immediately transported me back to the days when my dad would wake me at 4:30 in the dark and early morning to pack up our car and head out to some nearby lake to catch some bass.  The all-too-familiar sound of the reel’s bail-arm clicking into place was my cue to be ready for whatever came next.

Reelin’ it in.

Slowly, I turned the handle to pull in my line, letting my artificial bait wiggle and jiggle before any nearby trout.  A small tug here and a small tug there would hopefully entice the fish even more.  And sure enough, one of them fell for it.  I felt the line being pulled away from me.  I waited three beats and then pulled the rod back to lock the hook in.  It took, and I began to reel in my prize.  He fought me quite a bit, and I didn’t have much traction in my flip-flops.  I thought that if this fish wins, I’m probably going in the drink, and I was not willing to let that be an option.  My leg muscles tightened for stability and my abs engaged for support.   And soon, I had caught my first fish in six years.

Meet Appy, my first fish I’ve caught in six years.

One of the crew, Jon, offered to clean it for me, and Leather offered to cook it up as an appetizer.  I agreed to both, and named my fish “Appy”. Now what happens next needs to be seen and not explained, but know that John thoroughly cleaned and gutted Appy prior to Leather preparing him.

Check out this video to see what followed.

After a re-cleaning, we hungry river rafters savored the tasty treat that was re-prepped and grilled just for us.

Before…
…after.

Between the food, friendship, and Frankenfish, this is one outdoor adventure I’ll not soon forget.

The happy participants of the maiden voyage of the Winding Waters/Plate & Pitchfork/Noble Rot Snake River trip.

Slithering Down The Snake River

We got an early start to drive a couple of hours from Joseph, OR to the Hell’s Canyon Dam.  That’s where we would “put in” and begin our rafting adventures on the Snake River.  There were ten guests on this trip and at least that many staff and crew from Winding Waters, Plate & Pitchfork, and Noble Rot.

“Putting in” near the Hell’s Canyon Dam on the Snake River.

Each person on the trip was allowed to bring a small dry-bag for day-use on the river.  In mine was a bottle of water, sunscreen, chapstick, and my camera (protected by a waterproof case).  We each had a large dry bag, too, which contained our sleeping bag, a pillow, two days’ worth of clothes, and our toiletries.  These big bags– along with tents, cots, sleep mats, huge Igloos of food and beverages, cooking supplies, a portable kitchen, tables, chairs, and who knows what else–were hauled by the crew on a few gear boats.

We needed several gear boats to haul our food and cooking gear, our camping gear, and our personal necessities.
Paul (the far raft) and Caitlin (in “Cleopatra’s Barge”) do all the legwork–and armwork– and guide their trusting passengers smoothly down the river.

We, the guests, were divided among three rafts, expertly manned (and womaned) by Paul, Cowboy Craig, and Caitlin, our river guides.   In the hopes of having some thrilling whitewater action, Rick and I chose to ride with Craig.  On his raft, we’d get the chance to help paddle through the rough waters.  We felt bold and wanted to get the most out of this experience.

Slithering down the Snake River.

The morning provided little opportunity for the much-anticipated paddling, but we were treated to rich and remarkable scenery.  With Oregon on our left and Idaho on our right, we floated–sometimes swiftly, sometimes leisurely–northward down the Snake.  Craggly rock peaks loomed above us on both sides of the river.  Close to the water’s edge, hearty shrubs and trees flourished, while higher up, amber-hued desert dry grass bearded the face of Hell’s Canyon’s rugged walls.

After lunch, the river got rough with us.  And we loved it.  Every so often, someone in the raft would let out a “woo-hoo!” or a “yeah!” or some unspellable shriek of excitement as the currents rushed us down the river.

When we would approach class III rapids (defined as:  Rapids are moderate with irregular waves which are difficult to avoid. Complex maneuvering is required to avoid capsizing. Most danger can be avoided by experienced paddlers. Large waves and/or strainers may appear. Strong currents can make self-rescue difficult. Scouting is advised for inexperienced paddlers.), we got out of our rafts and scouted.  Our expert guides explained to us how and where we would navigate through the waters and forewarned us of how hard we would have to paddle to help get us through.  The first time we scouted, I found this to be equal parts informative, intimidating, and exhilarating.

Time to scout some rapids.

The second time, we were confronted by a slightly wilder current.  Having successfully ridden through our first class III, my confidence was up.  But as we scouted the second, I must admit that I was slightly more nervous.  As we stood on the ridge overlooking the rushing river, my view of the most rigourous part was obstructed by several trees.  My vertically-challenged stature wasn’t helping any.  I could see where the strong rapids began and where it calmed again, but I couldn’t see what was in between.  All I knew was that there was a patch we needed to avoid that surged over a rocky area and lead to a sudden drop.  Since I couldn’t see it, my mind decided to fill in the gaps with images of flipped rafts and heads banging into rocks.

I tried to look cool because everyone else seemed more or less at ease.  As we began walking back down the hill to get into our rafts, one of our gear boats came along.  We all stopped to watch how they would get through the rapids.  They seemed to float by so slowly compared to what I knew it felt like when you’re actually on the river.  At first people cheered them on.  Then we just watched…anxiously.

Their success was reassuring.  I thought confidently, “We got this.”

We have complete trust in Craig.

Back in the raft we went.  Craig reminded his six passengers that we needed to be in the proper position: sitting on the sides of the raft–three on each side for balance, feet dug deep under the inflatable seats in the center of the raft, paddles in hand, ready to dig hard at a moment’s notice.

We’re in this together.

I was seated in the back row and was thankful to have Rick across from me.  There’s a confidence like no other that comes from knowing that we are teammates, partners, and cohorts–we’re in this experience together.  As our raft approached the rapids, we glanced at each other and smiled uncontrollably.

Suddenly, Craig yelled out, “Paddle forward!”  We were now in work mode.   I leaned awkwardly forward (as one would when one’s feet are shoved under a seat with the lower body facing one direction and the upper body facing another), stretched my arms out to dig the paddle into the water and then pulled hard with my whole body.  Reach and pull and reach and pull and reach and pull.  I tried to be sure to stay in rhythm with the people in front of me, but I think they were keeping pace with my racing heartbeat, which must have been pounding so loudly through my chest.  We kept digging until Craig yelled, “Ok!”–our cue that we had cleared the roaring current.

Taking a breather on a rock cliff above our camp.

Early that evening, when we finally made it into camp, my adrenaline was still surging, but I was exhausted. Thankfully, the crew had arrived well ahead of us and had set up our tents and the dining area.  Leather and Joe were getting our meal ready, too.  We had time to time on our hands to freshen up, do some fishing, and share in convivial conversation.  As we feasted on a gourmet dinner and nibbled on a clever version of s’mores, each of us recounted repeatedly our versions of how our first day on the river went.  And the stories never got old.

Check out some of these scenes from our camp.

The perfect place to camp for the night.
Rick seizes the opportunity to go fishing.
Brought together by the love of food and the spirit of adventure.
S’mores, anyone?

We watched as the sky went from blue to rose to indigo to black, and felt the radiant heat that the surrounding boulders had absorbed all day long.  Craig serenaded us with his guitar and beautiful cowboy-style songs.   Rick and I marveled at the scene around us.  There we were, far removed from any sign of civilization, sheltered along the valley of an impressive canyon, well fed, well cared for and completely content under the light of a galaxy of stars.  You couldn’t have scripted a better day than this.  It made us all the more eager for what tomorrow would bring.

I Wanna Be A Cowgirl

Before coming anywhere near a raging river, we got to see some raging bulls.  Well…docile, happy, and well-fed bulls and their lady cow friends.  The Plate & Pitchfork part of the experience incorporated a visit to two different cattle ranches.  Since steak would be on several of our gourmet menus during the trip, we got the opportunity to learn about where our protein would be coming from.

In addition to cattle, you’ll find plenty of happy little chickens, plump pigs and other farm animals roaming the lot.

First stop: Carman Ranch.  Run by Cory and her husband Dave, this Hereford Cattle ranch has been family-run for four generations and spans about 8,000 acres.  Along with raising grass-fed cattle, this young couple, their three little ones, and Cory’s uncle raise pigs, chickens, and ducks, and have two really playful dogs.

Welcome to Carman Ranch.

It seems like an ideal pastoral setting for living a rancher’s life, but this way of life requires the right combination of ingenuity and integrity. Driven by a commitment to preserve the natural environment and raise a quality product, CR focuses on organic practices: no pesticides in the grass, no hormones, and no antibiotics for the animals.  They also use a “pasture-based production system” that prevents erosion and groundwater contamination, encourages native plant growth, and provides a better food source for their cows.  And if their cows are eating healthier, you get to eat healthier-for-you beef.

A thin electrified rope keeps these cows grazing where they should be.

They are also systematic about how the cows graze.  Normally, grass-fed cows graze freely, where they want when they want.  Here, they’re kept to a certain strip of grass for a period of time (with the help of a thin, electrified rope) until the ranchers want them to move to the next patch.  The rope is turned off and dropped, the cows cross over to the next area, and the rope goes back up.  This way, the ranchers can manage how much the cows eat and the rate of grass regrowth. The cows are so strangely well behaved.  Not only do they know not to touch the electric rope and when it’s OK to move to the next area, they even respond to Dave’s cow calls.

Leather explains the preparation and origins of our locally-sourced dishes.

For lunch, our chef Leather Storrs (I swear, that is his real name) and his sous-chef Joseph—both of the Portland restaurant Noble Rot—prepared us a splendid meal: gourmet mac ‘n’ cheese, grill-seared beef on a bed of arugula, and smoky onions paired with plump tomatoes. Everything but the mac ‘n’ cheese was from the farm, and I wanted seconds of the whole meal.  To be truthful, I couldn’t have told you based on taste whether or not the beef we ate was grass-fed or organic or whatever, but I can say that it was scrumptious.

Coming back for seconds of the seared Carman Ranch steak and arugula.
6 Ranch is a “Century Farm” that’s been in the family for over 125 years.

Soon, and with bellies still bulging from our first of numerous impeccable meals on this trip, we headed to 6 Ranch—a “Century Farm (in the family for more than 100 years) where Corriente Cattle is king.   Like their Hereford cousins, these cattle are also grass-fed, but these descendants of cows brought to the Americas by Spanish conquistadors are born to run (corriente can mean “running” and “common” in Spanish).  So, that’s what these common cattle do at 6 Ranch—run and run and run, resulting in an athletic and healthy bovine.

Corriente Cattle are the slender athletes of the bovine world.
Liza Jane of 6 Ranch is a real-deal cowgirl.

Liza Jane, her husband Craig (a former rodeo clown and lifelong cowboy), her daughter Adele, some horses, and a handful of border collies move the cattle around and give them quite the workout.  Craig gave us a vivid demonstration of how he and his canine companions herd the cattle.  As we gathered in a shady corner of a dusty corral, Craig, mounted on his trusty steed, waited as Liza Jane unlocked the gate that held back the cattle.  One by one, they sauntered out like they owned the place.  Once all of them had cleared the gate, it was on.

Cowboy Craig

At first the chase was playful.  With energetic dogs on three sides of the herd, the cattle made their way along the perimeter of the corral, went behind and around a small barn, passed by us, and continued toward the far end of the enclosure.  They were jogging more than they were running, and it was kind of cute how they seemed to humor Craig and the dogs.  But then Craig had the dogs change direction and the cattle had to reverse their course.  Slight confusion ensued as they made their way around the barn again.  Not everyone was following the leader, and they seemed surprised to come face-to-face with their friends who were rounding the corner.  Eventually, the cattle were herded into the smaller corral, and the process was started all over again.

This time, Craig made the dogs make the cows cross a small stream and decided that he would show us his roping skills.  I don’t know what happened or how they knew what Craig’s intentions were, but panic was definitely in the air.  These black bovines got wild-eyed and started scrambling to get away from whatever was freaking them out.  Around the barn they went, Craig circled the rope above his head, and whooshhhh!  Swing and a miss.  The cattle knew what was up.  They wanted no part of this, so they ran even faster.

The dogs chased them this way and that.  Craig prepped his lasso once more to snag a bull by the legs, but to no avail.   The bull narrowly escaped capture, and the cattle’s anxiety grew.  They rounded the barn once more and came running right at us.  For a second, none of us moved.  I think we were in disbelief that these massive animals were really coming our way.  But as the ground started to rumble and the dust clouds swirled higher, larger, and closer to us, we did our own swirling and started to scurry for an escape route or a fence to hop onto.  In my mind I could see the headlines:  City Slickers Trampled By Cows.

Just then, one of the border collies cut off their path and diverted the stampede away from us.  Sighs of relief, hearty chuckles, and even clapping filled the open air.  There’s nothing like not being crushed by large animals to make people happy and thankful.

The horse hold the line taut to prevent the bull from getting loose.

But the show wasn’t over.  Craig was still determined to rope himself a bull.   Around the barn he went, with more than two dozen Corrientes to choose from.  He spotted the one he wanted, swung his lasso high in the air, and BAM! Down went the bull!  Caught by the hind leg, the beast tried to get up.   Craig guided his horse to walk away from the bull, not only for safety, but to hold tension in the rope to prevent the bull from escaping.  The horse held its position. Craig dismounted and approached the animal.  He bound the back legs together and then bound the front legs together.  The bull still struggled.  He was pissed.

All but one of the other cattle gathered at the far end of the corral, purposefully not looking at what was going on.  The lone cow stood staring at her captured friend, eyes wide, tail still.  You could almost hear the others mooing to her, “Don’t look.  You can’t help him.  Pay no attention and everything will be fine.”

Craig rock-a-bye-babies this bull until he’s nice and calm.

Like a wise, country shaman, Craig told us, in a cowboy drawl, that he could make this ornery bull calm enough to just lie there and then calmly walk away.  I didn’t quite believe him, but I had to see him try.  He took the rope from the hind legs in one hand and grabbed the rope from the front ones with the other.  Carefully, skillfully, as though he had done this hundreds of times before, Craig rock-a-bye-babied that bull into Happy Cow Land.  The tension left its body.  Its breath became steady and deep.  Craig undid both of the ropes and the bull just lied there.  For a full minute, that brawny beast stayed right where he was and you could hear nothing but a gentle breeze blow through that corral.  None of us spoke.  None of us moved.  We just stood there in amazement.

Then the bull quietly got up and walked over to his friends by the fence like nothing had happened.  Like it was all a dream.

“I want to do that,” I thought to myself.  I want to rope a cow.  Craig had elevated himself to legend status in my mind, and I wanted to learn from the master.

Beef. It’s what’s for dinner. And so are potatoes, string beans with bacon, and mushrooms.

Later, back at the stables, as we waited for Leather and Joe to artfully prepare our dinner of Caesar salad, Corriente beef, roasted potatoes, string beans with thick-cut bacon, mushrooms, and a peach cobbler (my mouth is watering as I type), we got the chance to learn to use a lasso and rope a calf.  Not a real calf, of course, but a metal and plastic stand-in for a calf.

For me, learning to be a cowgirl and mastering lasso skills takes a lot of concentration and effort.

I was determined to be successful.  I hung onto every word Craig said. I watch how he held the coiled end of the rope, or lariat, in his left hand.  His right hand grasped the honda, or loop, that would be aimed and thrown at the helpless fake calf.  Big, equal-sized circles around his head he made with the lasso, arm raised to shoulder level, but never circling from the shoulder joint.  Rather, the gesture originated from his elbow, and that gave him better control.

I copied him move for move, step for step, circle for circle, but I couldn’t do it.  I’d get close but it would somehow slip off the dummy and onto the ground.  Not wanting to be a lasso hog, I let someone else try and waited for another turn.  Even without a rope in my hand, I watched the teacher and the student intently and imitated their movements.  Ugh, when was it going to be my turn again?  I really wanted to get this.

Rick and Leather get into the calf-roping spirit.

My opportunity came again, and I listened once more to my cowboy professor.  This time, I followed through with the release of the honda, extending my arm in direct aim at the sawhorse calf’s neck, and BAM!  I got ‘em!  I wanted to hoot and holler, but I kept my ladylike cowgirl composure, felt a deep-from-within smile glide across my face, and stood tall with unanticipated pride.  I walked to my captured calf like I had on spurs that jingle jangle jingle and benevolently set him free.

I kept practicing, with varying degrees of success, until I built up my confidence to catch a live animal, a real hunk of beef.   Thankfully, we got one of my practice shots and this actual capture on video.

In a simple stable setting, we enjoyed great food, wonderful company, lively reflections of our day on the ranches, and anticipation for tomorrow’s adventures.

Throughout the evening, we all discussed how thoroughly we enjoyed the day’s events and were eagerly anticipating the next day’s adventures.  With our happiness still palpable and with stars burning bright under a wide Oregon sky, we captured the moment on film before we headed back to our B&B to get a good night’s rest.

We happily survived a day on the ranch, but will we survive the roaring rapids of the Snake River?

Whitewater And Food? Yes, Please!

I don’t know what’s been in the water that Rick and I have been drinking lately, but we cannot get enough of outdoorsy activities.   Maybe it’s a phase, but we’ve sure been bit by the adventure travel bug.

Two of Rick’s guidebook-users, Paul and Penny, invited us to join their Winding Waters River Expeditions for a special trip down through Hell’s Canyon on the Snake River, which borders Oregon and Idaho.  They teamed up with Plate & Pitchfork to do a celebrity chef-catered 4-day weekend, featuring locally grown/raised/harvested/ foraged foods and some gnarly class III and class IV rapids.  Rick loves white-water rafting (he did it about a decade ago), and I love food.  A lot. We accepted the invitation.

My anticipation for this trip sometimes kept me awake at night.  Did I have the right gear?  Do I have the skills and the strength to do this? Would I hit my head on a rock? Am I going to get sunburnt and get my typical photosensitivity skin rash (Yes, that’s a real thing)?

Gathering up my gear for our weekend on the Snake River in Hell’s Canyon, OR.

I agonized over having the right kind of clothes that would dry quickly and give me ample coverage—cotton-free materials, a sturdy cap, Keen-like water shoes, and a new bathing suit to match my new turquoise-blue Roxy rashguard.  Yeah, I’m that high-maintenance.  REI, Quicksilver, and Patagonia have finally reached BFF status with me…well, just FF if we’re being honest.  Rick had to get an update on his clothing and gear, too, but he is a good and quick decision-maker.  I admire that so much.

This was at the start of the drive.

Early on a Thursday morning, Rick and I loaded up my car with our sleeping bags, enough clothes and appropriate gear for three days and two nights on the river, and enough snacks to get us through the eight to nine hours it would take us to drive to Joseph, Oregon.  I was the Designated Driver.  Rick was the Designated Worker on the Computer.  Driving for that long sure affords you lots of unexpected opportunities to learn new and, let’s say, interesting things about each other. We made it to Joseph in one piece and still a couple.

Enjoying a scenic drive through Washington and Oregon.
Rick makes the most of a nine-hour drive by getting lots and lots of writing done.

That night, we briefly met Paul, who would be one of our river guides, his wife Penny, the owner of Plate & Pitchfork, Erika, and the rest of our fellow rafters. But it wouldn’t be till the next day when we really started on our adventure.

Stay tuned for upcoming posts on this series about our rafting and food adventures on the Snake River.

Losing My Outdoorsy Virginity

As you might guess, I’m a big fan of the conveniences of modern life like electricity, running water, heat, and fly swatters, and I think whoever invented window screens is a genius. While I really enjoy running, I’d rather run on a treadmill than run outdoors so I don’t get sunburnt or rained on.  And I think my toes are way too ugly to not be prettified by some sassy nail polish.  I acknowledge and embrace these quirks about myself, and thankfully, so does Rick, but as of late, he and I both are also embracing our need to connect with nature and be more physically active.

Dressed head-to-toe in REI gear, Rick and I are geared up for adventure.

Two years ago, being new Seattle, I vowed to Rick, “I’ll never be an REI girl!”  I desperately wanted to cling to my Southern California-ness: flip flops, tank tops, supahcute purses and all.  Now, I’m up in Alaska, fully decked in duds all purchased from REI, and doing things that are so unlike me.

Since being on this cruise, I’ve seen whales jump for joy, I’ve scrambled up a mountainside to get close to a glacier, and learned about local animal and plant life from a National Park Ranger and four fantastic expedition leaders.  I’ve kayaked near the mouth of a river to watch a bear catch some salmon, paddleboarded in 40-degree water and stayed upright, explored both timeworn and new-growth forests, and saw things that triggered my wild and racy imagination in evocative tide pools.

We met and got to know great people like Joe, John, Polly and Carla.

I’ve also met and been greatly inspired by so many wonderful fellow travelers and crewmembers that have nurtured my newfound adventurous spirit.  Being around people who have an enthusiasm for the outdoors makes it easier to stretch myself beyond my own comfortable parameters and to discover new things about the places we visit…and about myself.

Any one of those things that I’ve done on this trip would have been enough to make this cruise one of the most memorable vacations I’ve ever had.  And to have done all of those things on the same trip has been such a tremendous gift. Rick and I are grateful that we’ve been so fortunate to share in these priceless experiences together.  It’s expanded our perceptions about what adventure travel can be, it’s challenged us to do activities we’ve never done before, and it’s brought us even closer to one another.  What more could you ask for?

Well, despite all the amazing things we had already done, we couldn’t help but hope for one more thing: a calving glacier. You see it all the time in travel shows and nature shows, but I’d never seen it with my own eyes.  But it’s not like you can plan those things.  Nature will do what she wants when she wants, and no amount of hoping can change that.

Heading out to Ford’s Terror on our skiff.

On our last full day, we wanted to get in as much adventure as possible.  Early in the morning, we boarded a skiff to explore an area called Ford’s Terror.  Here, there’s a bottleneck entrance into a fjord.  The fierce current changes direction every six hours, and if you get stuck inside the fjord, you have six hours until you can work your way back out.  We got there when the current was transitioning from pushing us out to soon be drawing us in.  We didn’t dare cross into the fjord.

Getting cozy with a blue ‘berg.

Instead, we explored the coastline and came face-to-face with massive icebergs.  The monoliths were so tightly compacted that there were virtually no air bubbles, absorbing all colors in the light spectrum except blue.  Each of us, with jaws dropped open in amazement, reached out to make contact with these monuments of frozen water, appreciating their temporal beauty before they floated away with the current and continued their slow, melting demise.

Rick and the iceberg high-five each other.

Knowing that these icebergs had once been a part of the nearby Dawes Glacier, my excitement and eagerness to see it grew steadily.  But patience was a virtue that I would need to invoke.  Because of that changing current, we’d have to time things just right so that we wouldn’t find ourselves up a fjord without an escape route.

Chuck and Ann enjoying the mist off the waterfall.

We continued exploring the bay, seeing harbor porpoises pop up here and there.  There were checking us out as much as we were checking them out.  We got right underneath a stunning waterfall whose drop point was so high, you had to bend your head all the way back like a Pez dispenser to try to see it.

Soon we switched to the next activity: kayaking the bay.  This gave us a chance to revisit the icebergs and realize how much they had moved.  Two icebergs that had been about thirty yards apart just two hours ago had now collided with one other.  The scraping and groaning of the two icy beasts as they negotiated right of way still rings in my ears.

Amanda and Becky looking content without noseeums swarming their heads.

As we visited more waterfalls and more of the bay, we realized the greatest drawback of kayaking was that you couldn’t go fast enough to escape the mosquitos and noseeums that swarmed your face.  Our fellow passengers Amanda and Becky told us to keep one hand raised above our heads because those pesky insects will tend to flock to the highest point.  As they demonstrated this technique, the teacher in me kept wanting to call on them and answer any questions they had.

Seven layers and a life vest aren’t enough to keep out the cold.

Finally, we had a window of opportunity in the afternoon to get out to Dawes Glacier.  The temperature had dropped drastically and the foggy conditions made visibility a challenge.  Even with numerous layers of clothing, hats and gloves, the cold seeped its way through.

After traveling about half an hour through the windy, drizzly fjord, we reached the majestic glacier.  We kept our distance—staying about 1.5 miles from the face—because if it were to calve, a strong swell could easily topple our 12-person skiff.

We are 1.5 miles away from the glacier. In the middle ground and to the right, you can seen birds perched on an ice sheet.

We waited and waited.  And then we waited some more.  But time passed quickly with so many things to look at.  There were sea lions lying on ice sheets, tanning themselves under an imaginary sun.  Flocks of seabirds hovered and then dove periodically toward the water, presumably to scoop out some tasty morsels.  It gave us a better sense of scale, knowing the relative size of these animals, seeing how far they were from the glacier, and then mentally calculating how enormous Dawes is.

Which one of these glacial chunks is going calve? Only nature knows.

So many sections looked like they were about to calve.  We fixed our gaze on one wobbly-looking column that we were certain would go down anytime soon.  Patience.  Patience.  Patience.  Suddenly, we heard the gunshot cracking of ice.  Stunned by how loud it was, we scanned the glacier to find the origin of the sound.  But we were too slow to see it happen.  All we saw were the last remnants of a splash.  My disappointment lasted only a minute or so until we felt the rolling swell sway our skiff.  It was so strong that I had to hold onto Rick and the metal bars to keep my balance.

We stayed there for another twenty-five minutes—our teeth chattering virtually in unison.  As we were deciding to head back to our ship, another skiff came by.  They were bold (read: crazy) enough to get much closer than we did.  We hesitated about leaving.  What if they saw it calve and we didn’t?  We lingered a bit, watched them move even closer, and felt our jealousy start rearing its ugly head.  Finally, our skiff skipper said we had to go back, but he told us to keep looking back at the glacier, just in case.

Ka-SPLASHHHHHHHHH! A massive chunk of glacier has now become the newest iceberg.

Slowly, and I mean slowly, he started to pull away.  Within thirty seconds, we heard that familiar gunshot crack, but this time I had my camera focused and metered on the right spot.  Ka-SPLASHHHH!  I got it!   I couldn’t believe my luck.  Now we were all eager to stay a few more minutes to see it one more time.  And sure enough, Ka-SPLASHHHHHHH!  We saw another one!   And I got that one on film, too.

The second calving. Being at the right place at the right time (with a really good camera) has it’s benefits.

This was the perfect climax to my virgin Alaskan outdoorsy nature adventure.  Everything I could have hoped for happened, and then some.  This has definitely whetted my appetite for more adventure travel.

The amazing, talented, knowledgeable, and thoughtful crew of the Safari Endeavour.

Rick and I are so appreciative of our Captain Jill and her stellar crew of the Safari Endeavour.  They made all these experiences possible and consistently made us feel like part of their ship’s family.   Their mission to get us to the right places to see the best of what Alaska’s Inside Passage has to offer gave us the chance to see things we’ve never seen, do things we’ve never done, and to realize what we are capable of as travelers and adventurers.

The fantastic crew bid each and every one of us a very fond farewell.
Thank you for everything you and your crew have done, Captain Jill. This was one of our greatest adventures.

As travelers, it is our hope and our goal to learn about the places we visit, to respect and appreciate the cultural similarities and differences of the people we meet, and to bring home a broader and deeper understanding of our world and of ourselves.  This Alaskan cruise has been the perfect backdrop for all of those things.  I may have only just dipped my toe into the world of adventure travel, but it definitely leaves me with the desire for more.

Sex and Catholic Guilt in a Tide Pool

Rick and I are ready for some tide pooling!

A half hour ride away from our ship, our skiff beached itself on the coastline of a tiny island. Today we were going tide pooling, and one by one, we abandoned our vessel to begin our hunt for coastal aquatic life. The tide was out, and usually hidden treasures glistened under the early morning sun.

Feeling too guilty to move.

Intertwined with a carpet of kelp strewn along the shore, the exoskeletons of huddled masses of mussels, clams, and barnacles of all shapes and sizes met their demise beneath the soles of my tall, grey rubber boots.  Crunchcrunchcrunchcrunchcrunch. Every crackle was a death knell to me.  My Catholic guilt surged through my body, and then like liquid nitrogen, froze me in my tracks.  I didn’t dare move anymore, knowing that I was marine life murderer.

The diversity of sea life can be found everywhere, if you’re willing to go explore it.

Silently, I stood immobile. My group was leaving me behind, and I had to make the choice: stay put and see nothing more, or get moving and explore the wonders of the tide pools.  Making the obvious choice, I tip-toed ahead as lightly as I could, trying to ignore the trail of broken shells I left behind.

Camilla bends down for a closer experience with the tide pool life.

There’s something so seductive about the swaying of the shallow water across a vast pasture of colorful sea life that draws you in—the way the water’s edge kisses the shore lovingly, longingly.  Keeping your distance is an exercise in futility.  The intimate spaces that sheltered these nautical plants and animals enticed you to bend down, come closer, and, if only for a moment, enter their world.   And if you let your mind ebb like the water around you, you could start to see things in a whole new way.  In sexy ways.

Rick chastised me jokingly, saying that I had a dirty mind—and perhaps I do.  But I couldn’t help but see something more than just sea urchins, kelp pods and chitons.

Indulge your own naughty imagination and take a peek at this sea anemone.  What do you see?

I see mammalia.

How about this droopy orb?

How’s it hangin’?

Or this chubby phallus sea cucumber?

This is so Freudian.

Some things were more sexy and seductive and less pornographic, like this bathing beauty, poster girl of a starfish.

Pinup model starfish

And some things, I just didn’t know what to make of, so my Catholic side took over again.  We dubbed this the Christmas Anemone.

You can find the Christmas Anemone on small islands in Alaska and in the Land of Misfit Toys.
Sea life attached to sea life attached to sea life attached to rock.

We combed these tide pools for the better part of the entire morning. Every which way you turned, you could find nature’s creations clinging steadfast to their protective shelters along the rocks, beneath the surface of the water, and catching a ride on the backs of their neighbors.

Hey, Matt. What’s this orange thing?

Wading through the pools and climbing over rocky mounds, we relied on our trusty guide Matt to help us identify what we were looking at.  Every few minutes, you’d hear, “Hey, Matt!  What’s this?” He’d come by, ready to spout out the common and scientific names of whatever had caught your eye.

Going to tide pool school with Matt and his handy guidebook.

His depth and breadth of knowledge of these creatures was impressive.  He taught us about their eating habits, natural predators, and special physical features.  He described their interdependent relationships with other species, their strengths and weaknesses, and how climatic and seasonal changes affected their behavior.  When he wasn’t sure about a name or didn’t have a ready answer to our question, he relied on his handy Plants and Animals of the Pacific Northwest book.

Soon, much of this island will be under water again as the tide comes back in.

As the heat of the late summer sun began to bake everything exposed above the water line, Matt reminded us how adaptable these organisms are.  In the waters of southeast Alaska, one must be able withstand daily temperature changes as drastic as a 30-degree difference when the tide is in versus when the tide is out.   As Matt reassured us of their hardiness, I still couldn’t help but feel guilty.  Though these things had managed to survive drastic changes in their environment, I had inadvertently smooshed them with every step I took.

So once more, I stood still, this time listening to the life around me.  The low tide lapped around my legs, and I could almost hear this small island breathe.  Remnants of the sea percolated across the landmass, and bivalves spurted out aerial streams of water like statues in a fountain.   This island was full of life.  And I realized that guilt had no place here.

Nature can be luscious, sexy, and evocative.  It is also practical, strong, and smart.  This island, like the natural world itself, has endured more than we can know, and I know that long after I have left, life will continue to thrive and proliferate.

Rick Steves Learns To Be Prepared…The Hard Way

If you know anything about my partner Rick, you know that he works tirelessly and passionately to teach people about traveling in Europe.  He is one of the few people I know who, after working a 16-hour day (as he is prone to do when researching and updating his guidebooks or filming his TV show in Europe), is actually invigorated, not exhausted.  But even someone who loves his work needs a break once in awhile.

So when we decide to go on vacation (even if it involves traveling), it gives us a chance to do something that not work-related.   This Alaska trip has been the perfect fit for that.   There isn’t a museum, a church, a castle, a must-see monument, or endless lines of tourists for miles and miles and miles.  And we love it that way.  But what we have been fortunate to see are breaching whales, colossal glaciers, a bear who is an expert fisherman, and many other examples of Alaskan flora and fauna.

One of our land trek days included an arduous hike through a thick, gnarled root, and twisted path forest.

Nature revealed her age with her denseness, the intertwining symbiosis of her varied plant life, and the stature of her trees, whose multitude of limbs reached out across to one another to protect their forest companions below.

Her power was made evident by the raucous tumbling of a white water river that carved its way through the woodland, plummeted over a waterfall, and rushed to unite with the waters of the bay.

Rick and I enjoying the powerful rush, the raucous sounds, and the wispy mist of the thundering waterfall.
New life emerges in a primal forest.

And the beauty of her hopeful spirit sprouted all around us as colorful fungi, spores, and buds whispered their way into the dappled light of the lush forest floor.

As this area was maintained by the National Forest Service, large planks and chopped trunks provided stable steps over steep terrain and were an effort to protect as much of the forest as possible.  For the raw portions of the trail, we were thankful that our walking sticks and rubber rain boots helped us maintain stability and avoid soaking our clothes in mud.

Our guide Connor shows us how easy it is to be one with nature.

Despite—or perhaps because of—the arduousness of this hike, we were emboldened to truly engage ourselves with the luscious surroundings and feel one with nature.

Our experience was a bit different on our less strenuous hike through a new growth forest.  For this easier hike, our guide Connor had forewarned us that our rubber boots would be a good idea.  They were, as I mentioned, fantastic for our arduous hike, so I was happily geared up in my Hunters.  Our fellow hikers sported their rubber boots, too.  Rick, on the other hand, was eager to use his regular hiking boots on this regular hiking trail.   So he traded out his rubber boots for his hiking boots and left the rubber ones by the start of the trail for safekeeping.

Um, do you think you might need those later?
Hanging out at the back of the group so we could linger and take our photos.

Because of logging, weather damage, and erosion, this second area we explored had shorter trees and more exposed spaces.  The terrain was almost completely flat, and the former logging trails allowed us to move briskly and in an orderly fashion.  The unexpected consequence of that was that we felt like we had to hurry along and that we didn’t have ample opportunity to stop and smell the proverbial roses.  Nonetheless, it was easy to find striking beauty no matter where you looked.  Rick and I took frequent advantage of being the caboose of our group so we could document our stumbled upon natural treasures on our cameras.

Rain gear and rubber boots are your best friends when you hike through this forest.

The other unexpected consequence was that because this new growth forest was so exposed and was populated with younger, less hearty and less vigorous plant life, water tended to pool up and was not easily absorbed by the fledgling plants.  And so when we came across a two-feet deep, pond-like puddle in the middle of our path, we had no choice but to wade through.  Thankfully, we were all prepared with our just-to-the-knee high rubber boots.  All of us, except Rick.

I tried to help him find a way around it: rocks to step on, less shallow areas, or something—but to no avail.  Even the muddy edges of the waterlogged trail were so deep that he would have been up to his shins in muck and goop.

My “man-sel” in distress being piggybacked by our trusty guide Connor.

Enter Connor.  Being the fine, strapping young man that he is, Connor came back across the pond, hoisted Rick onto his back, and handily carried his damsel (or should I say, man-sel) in distress across the murky waters.  The look on everyone’s faces was priceless.  I was laughing so hard, my abs started to cramp up.  My man, the travel guru, had just been carried piggyback across a pond so his shoes wouldn’t get wet.  Seriously?

And the killer of it all is that this happened not once, not twice, not thrice, but four times!  Two ponds:  two piggybacks one way, and two piggybacks the other way.

Check out one of these piggybacks for yourself.

It just goes to show you, when you choose to try adventure travel, be prepared.  Have the right gear or…bring someone who will give you a piggyback ride.

Does A Bear $#&% in the Woods?

Does A Bear $#&% in the Woods?

I can’t tell you that answer for sure, but I do know they catch salmon in a river.

It’s a beautiful day for kayaking.

We had been kayaking for about ten minutes when our expedition leader, Laurie, got word on her walkie-talkie that a brown bear had been spotted at the mouth of a river.  We just had to see him. What an experience that would be to see a brown bear in the wild with our very own eyes! Rick and I paddled in tandem, and with each determined stroke bringing us closer to the beast, my body warmed with exertion and excitement, and I could feel the sweat beads drizzle down my temples.  I started to regret wearing so many layers, but there was no way to do anything about that now.  We were on a mission to see a bear.

Expedition Leader Laurie (red life vest) takes us leads us from our regular kayaking adventure to a nearby river in search of an Alaskan coastal brown bear.

We shifted to whisper mode as we approached the river.  When we were about fifty yards from its mouth, we held our formation, and we all scanned the banks for the bear.  Out of the corner of my eye, I saw Laurie’s arm shoot out and to the right.  She had spotted him.  My breath and my heartbeat started racing each other, and I had to bite my lip to not let out a yelp of anticipation.

I couldn’t concentrate on what I was doing.  My hands became all fumbly as I reached into my PFD (personal flotation device) pocket for my ziplock-covered camera.  Stupid plastic.  I tried to help Rick maneuver the kayak with one hand on the paddle and the other gripping my camera, like a python grips its victim, so it wouldn’t fall into the water.  I was a useless hot mess.  Finally, Rick and I agreed the he would captain this vessel so I could focus on shooting my prey, with my camera that is.

Umm, excuse me. You’re blocking my view.

I think Rick was having a bit of a struggle because the current of the river was so strong.  He had to battle against all that aquatic energy while jockeying for position with the nine other kayaks challenging him.  I had my camera almost fully zoomed, and every few seconds, gigantic heads would dominate my screen.  I felt ridiculous yet strangely justified in my frustration:  Get out of my way! Don’t you know I’m trying to take a picture of this bear?

Slowly, stealthily, he hunts his prey.

The bear seemed oblivious to us—more concerned about his next meal than the presence of a rainbowed flotilla of kayakers.   His massive body moved gracefully on the land, on the rocks, and through the water.  No movement was wasted.  His gaze moved across the water, scanning for his next meal.

As yet another kayak passed in front of my vision, I heard a huge splash and the awestruck gasps of fellow kayakers.  I craned my neck and made twitching body gestures like sign language Rick should have understood to mean, “Steer to the right!” But we weren’t fast enough.  The current had pushed us too far back and too far left for us to see the bear enjoying his tasty treat.

Pushed back by the current once more, Rick and I would work our way back to get closer to the bear again.

We persevered.  Minor frustrations are no match for the patience of a kayaking pack of city slickers with cameras in hand at their first bear sighting.  Time was our only enemy, for we soon would need to return to our ship and venture off to new frontiers.

After about thirty minutes spying on this animal and having capturing several decent (and many absolutely worthless) shots of the salmon-stalking brown bear, Laurie silently signaled that it was time to leave.  None of us wanted to abandon our setting.   We all pleaded to her longingly with doe eyes, like children in front of the TV set saying, “Please, Mom.  Just five more minutes.”  While she didn’t actually relent or say no, some of the kayakers eventually stopped paddling against the current and allowed themselves to slowly drift away from the live nature show.   A few of us naughty children lingered for just a bit longer to get a few more photos (click on thumbnails to enlarge photos and to launch slideshow).

And thank goodness for that.  I kept the video rolling on my camera and got what I had been waiting for with restless anticipation: the bear catching a salmon.

The whole time I was filming him snatch and then chomp on his prey, my mouth hung open in utter amazement, with hardly a breath entering or escaping.  I had just witnessed what was, to me, one of the most amazing displays of raw skill and instinct.  This coastal brown bear was a truly talented fisherman.  And while for him, this was just another day on the river, fishing for his lunch, for me, this was a moment I will never forget.